Paris: World's Most Beautiful City? The Myth Divides Opinion

Napoleon III and Haussmann made Paris the top tourist destination, but at the cost of demolishing its historic core. This myth is now under debate.

English · Original discussion in Spanish · Published

Paris, the world's most beautiful city: a myth not everyone buys

Paris is often called the world's most beautiful city. At least, that is what those who confess envy towards "the silk horde" and its "dazzling, majestic, elegant, modern, walkable, orderly and perfect" capital claim. The starting point is not just aesthetic: there is an economic thesis behind it. According to this view, France owes roughly 40% of its current wealth to Napoleon III and Baron Haussmann, thanks to massive interior renovation works that turned the city into a tourism brand without planning it. The comparison with Madrid is immediate and bitter: doing something similar today, in a neo-Herrerian style or historicist combinations, would be frowned upon after the triumph of what is derogatorily called Corbusier-style ugliness.

The rebuttal does not take long. The narrative of Haussmannian Paris as a masterpiece has a cost that the postcard does not show: to build those boulevards, almost all previous Paris was demolished. Walls, temples, medieval and Renaissance layouts, all razed to the ground. "No, thank you," summarizes a stance that does not buy the result. Another line of attack is more prosaic: the city might not be so beautiful, but simply the only major European capital not devastated in World War II, which would have preserved a harmony now lost elsewhere on the continent. In other words, merit of the bomb that did not fall, not of urban planning.

Is Paris really the most beautiful city or just the best preserved?

The conservation argument has traction. If Berlin, Vienna or London had arrived intact in the 21st century, the comparison would be different, this current holds. Some go further and place Bordeaux, Rouen or Nantes ahead of the capital, while others directly state that Paris is the least worthwhile part of France. Direct experience appears in several testimonies: hours-long traffic jams, graffiti, dirt and camps on the periphery. Against that, the rest of the country would offer "the authentic French experience."

The Spanish counter-offer gains ground with specific names. San Sebastián, Segovia, Toledo, Córdoba or Seville appear as alternatives that "laugh at" Paris, a cold city in every sense. Seville plays its own league: its historic center street map is the same as in the 16th century, and the oldest plan, from the 18th, would still serve to navigate it today. The list of Andalusian towns deployed —Setenil, Grazalema, Castellar de la Frontera, Ubrique, Jimena, Ronda, Zahara de la Sierra, Osuna, Carmona— depicts an Andalusia described as "the Spanish Tuscany." The problem, another voice points out, is that ugliness might be part of the national DNA: Italians summarize it with a "manca finezza" (lack of finesse).

The hidden cost of Haussmann's Paris: destroyed heritage

The heritage critique is the most uncomfortable for the triumphant narrative. What is admired today as a harmonious ensemble is, strictly speaking, a 19th-century pastiche built on the ruins of everything before. Roman, medieval and Renaissance Paris disappeared forever. The comparison with Ciudad Real, scaling down, is devastating: it is also a 19th-century city, but with 20th-century architecture, much less graceful. The difference would not lie in the method, but in the quality of the result.

This is where the underlying thesis about Spain comes in. Not boarding the industrialization train in the 19th century would have prevented the flourishing of an industrial bourgeoisie with money and desire to display it in architectural whims. Barcelona, which did live through that transformation, would be proof that Spain could have been at that level. The failure, it is argued, was one of mindset. And the consequence is visible today: neighborhoods where streets are laid out "wherever they please" and blocks without ordinances requiring designed facades. Urban beauty, this current maintains, does not require pretentious fountains: it requires planning and taste.

Which cities truly compete with Paris?

The list of contenders is long and varied. Florence appears several times as a favorite, with the Tuscan sun as a hard-to-refute argument. St. Petersburg enters strongly: the Tsars built it from scratch with the best available architects, spending lavishly and massacring their own citizens —a quarter million just for lagoon drainage works— and the result is a center where no facade clashes. Vienna, Caen, Carcassonne, Albi, Cordes sur Ciel and even Tangier appear in the conversation. Rome, it is conceded, is not so perfect but wins on monuments.

Climate is the other open front. Those who lived there for years describe it as horrible: cold, constantly cloudy. It does not prevent the city from being wonderful, but it dismantles the idea of a permanent paradise. Then there is the most uncomfortable dimension of the matter: the perception of insecurity and demographic change in certain areas, which several testimonies cite as sufficient reason not to return. It is a subjective perception, not data, but it weighs heavily on the balance of those deciding whether to return or not.

The exact point where the analysis gets stuck is this: if the Haussmannian method —demolishing entirely and rebuilding with order— produced the most admired result in European urban planning, why is it politically impossible to replicate today? The hinted answer is not technical. It is one of mindset. And there, with confessed envy and the diagnosis of ugliness as national character, the conversation remains unresolved.

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Summary of a discussion on Burbuja.info - Foro de economía, actualidad y política., translated from Spanish and reviewed before publication. Read the full discussion (121 replies).

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