American artisan cheeses: the luxury hitting Spain at gold prices
Rogue River blue cheese costs 100 euros per kilo in Spain. More than any Roquefort or Cabrales. Yet some consider it the best cheese in the world, and it's no gimmick: it's bathed in pear liqueur and wrapped in syrah vine leaves. The discussion about American artisan cheeses reveals a niche that is almost unknown in Spain, where the offering is limited to a handful of importers and prices that make you think twice.
A world beyond orange cheddar
When American cheese comes up, the Spanish collective imagination jumps to fluorescent orange industrial cheddar. But the artisan reality is quite different. Creameries like Rogue Creamery (Oregon) produce blues that compete with Europe's finest. The Rogue River Blue, for instance, has won international competitions and is described as the result of a wild night between a Stilton and a Roquefort. Its price in Spain hovers around 100 euros per kilo, a considerable leap compared to the 30-40 euros of a good domestic blue.
Other examples such as Winnimere, wrapped in birch bark that melts into the cheese, or Great Lakes Blue, show a diversity that is barely seen on Spanish shelves. Imports are handled by specialized distributors like Murray's Cheese, which also ages European cheeses and offers varieties such as a Camembert that some consider the best they have ever tasted.
Is it worth the outlay?
Price is the main deterrent. A brie-style soft cheese wheel costs between 20 and 35 dollars at the source, but by the time it reaches Spain the price soars. Those who have tried them insist the quality justifies it. Moreover, the offering is concentrated in gourmet shops or online orders. The local alternative, of course, exists: Cantabria and Asturias produce top-level cheeses at more affordable prices, but cheese lovers shouldn't rule out the American option.
The paradox is served: while in the U.S. artisan cheese is championed as a local product, in Spain it becomes an imported luxury. The responsible consumer, budget permitting, can discover flavors found nowhere else.
The thought-provoking figure
The price of Rogue River Blue in Spain is double that of the best domestic blues. The question is whether the quality difference is proportional. Testimonials suggest it is, but the proof is in the tasting.
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