Santander, Spain without a car: a guide to not blowing your budget

Santander without a car and without going broke: what the brochures don't tell you

This summer, Santander is once again one of the most sought-after coastal destinations in Spain. But with hotels at €2,000 a week and a city centre that is increasingly overcrowded, many visitors are wondering whether this Cantabrian city is still an affordable destination. The answer, according to those who know it well, is yes, but with a trick: you have to get around without a car, avoid the most crowded areas and know where to eat.

Can you explore Santander on foot?

Those who have explored the city without a vehicle say it is perfectly doable. Staying in Puertochico allows you to reach the main attractions on foot: the Paseo de la Magdalena, the Pereda Gardens, the Botín Museum and the funicular that climbs up to General Dávila. From there, a 150-metre walk takes you to the Mimosa bar, famous for its Spanish omelettes. The key is to combine walking with the local bus routes – the 18 and the 15 – which connect with the northern beaches such as La Maruca and the Cabo Mayor lighthouse. A highly recommended route is the one that runs along the coast from El Sardinero to the lighthouse, passing through Mataleñas and the old shooting range.

Tapas without taking out a mortgage

The most frequently mentioned food attraction is rabas, the battered calamari typical of the region. You can find them at places like Barrio Pesquero or El Tronky, in La Pedreñera. For an affordable set lunch, the Fuente de restaurant, very close to Puertochico, is a classic among locals. Also mentioned are Conde Luna, in Cueto, and the option of tapas at the La Esperanza market, where the fish stalls are a spectacle in themselves. A curious fact: the bar at the lighthouse, whose décor was once described as "Francoist", has toned things down and now offers a spectacular sunset with decent tapas at reasonable prices.

Mass tourism reaches Santander too

Not everything is praise. The increase in visitors is noticeable in the Arrabal and Cañadio areas, which have become a nighttime hotspot that some residents find unbearable. "Thousands of people, constant murmur", describes one resident. The proliferation of terraces and nightlife has displaced the traditional atmosphere. What's more, anyone looking for four-star hotels is met with weekly rates of €2,000, which has led more than one person to give up their holiday in Cantabria. "As if it were Monaco", they complain.

Natural alternatives without a car

For those who want nature without a vehicle, the Liencres Dunes Park is accessible by bus, although it's best to arrive early to park – if you do have a car – or to find a good spot on Valdearenas beach. The dune area, however, is controversial because of how some people use it, which has even led to control measures being proposed. Quieter options are the coastal routes from La Maruca to the lighthouse, or the climb up to the Panteón del Inglés, a viewpoint over the cliff. For early risers, bus 18 drops you 200 metres from the promenade.

The debate reflects a real tension: Santander is still a charming city, but mass tourism and prices can spoil the experience if you don't have local contacts. The conclusion of those who know it best is that, with willing feet and a watchful wallet, the Cantabrian capital is still worth it. At least as long as the funicular keeps running and the rabas are within easy reach.