Mercadona's 'Cantabrian' Anchovies Canned in Morocco

'Cantabrian' Anchovies Canned in Segarro

The controversy began with a message on Mercadona’s social media: "The anchovies are from the Cantabrian Sea and our supplier holds certificates of origin. These fillets are packed at the Segarro plant of supplier Francisco Gil Comes (Castellón), which is why Segarro is indicated as the packing location, as required by regulations." The company’s response, published alongside a report by Vozpópuli, marks the start of a recurring debate: while the fish may indeed be from the Cantabrian Sea, the tins come from a Segarro factory owned by a Castellón-based supplier. The issue is not the fish’s origin, but what shoppers see on the shelf.

What the Label Actually Says

The key finding is that the word "Cantabrian" does not appear on the tin itself. It appears only on the price tag and the shelf display. On the packaging, the stated information is the place of processing: Segarro. Some observers note precisely: "Curiously, the tin says nothing about the Cantabrian... only the price label mentions it, but the tin doesn't lie." This distinction between the signage and the product underpins much of the case.

European regulations require declaring the fishing zone using the FAO code. Here lies the technical detail most frequently cited: the Cantabrian Sea corresponds to FAO zone 27, whereas the packaging displays FAO 34, which is not the Cantabrian Sea. This claim references Basque regional regulations, which identify only FAO 27 as the Cantabrian Sea and state that Santoña anchovies must be processed in Cantabria.

Evocative Branding and Legal Limits

The company’s strongest defense is that there is no formal falsehood. "They do lie. But they do so legally," summarizes an analysis distinguishing between contractually valid data—ingredient lists and FAO zones—and other labeling elements, where almost anything goes. If they used "Protected Designation of Origin Cantábrico," it would be fraud, as such a designation does not exist; if they explicitly labeled them "anchovies from the Cantabrian," it would also be problematic. The core issue is evocative branding: a name that suggests an origin without explicitly stating it.

In contrast, advertising law defines misleading advertising as any presentation that, in any way, induces or is likely to induce error among its audience, potentially affecting their economic behavior or harming competitors. Thus, the presentation—the sign, placement, and name—can be as decisive as the fine print. The debate hinges on whether mere evocation is sufficient to mislead consumers.

How to Identify Who Really Packs Preserves

The most useful method mentioned in the discussion is the oval health stamp. All animal-origin products processed within the European Union—meat, eggs, dairy, fish—carry an oval mark with the country at the top and the approval number and province in the center. Using this number, one can search the official RGSA database to find the company producing yogurts, milk, cured meats, or private-label preserves. If this oval mark is absent, the product was processed outside an EU country. In the case of these anchovies, the absence of the stamp is the first clue.

The Business of Offshoring Canning

The background is industrial, not merely about labels. Cantabrian canneries have been moving their plants to Segarro for years to increase profits. Fish is caught in the Cantabrian Sea, sent abroad for canning, and then returned to Spain for sale, even within Cantabria. The paradox is summarized bluntly: pollution concerns focus on old cars entering Madrid’s M30 ring road, while fish crosses the Strait of Gibraltar twice to end up on the same shelf.

Some share direct purchasing experiences from the Estepona industrial estate, where suppliers receive 50-kilo barrels later packed into 3- and 5-kilo formats, with the origin label visible. Previously available online, shipments are no longer offered.

Packaging, Price, and Persistent Suspicion

Criticism extends beyond origin. Questions arise about the format—a plastic container replacing glass jars, allegedly at a higher price—and the contents: "They claim it’s olive oil, but the mixture is practically transparent." Distrust spreads to the entire supply chain: according to this view, tuna arriving in Spain comes from distant fishing grounds, and its price has tripled, matching that of smaller fish.

There is a sense of repetitive fatigue. "This Mercadona anchovy story repeats more than garlic. The fishing zone versus packing zone issue has been the same for years, yet it’s always sold as new news." The controversy resurfaces periodically with identical data and labels.

Why Mercadona and Not Other Supermarkets?

Suspicions of unequal treatment loom over the case. The most uncomfortable criticism targets not the company, but the media focus: only Mercadona faces scrutiny in such matters, while other chains with different ownership structures escape attention. If the problem is labeling, it affects the whole sector; if it’s the brand, the discussion shifts.

Unresolved remains the calculation of how much of this origin differential translates into final prices and how much stays within the supply chain. A complete breakdown, item by item, is still missing.