Comillas resident moves inland, fed up with summer crowds

From Comillas to the Inland Village: A Resident Returns Fed Up With Crowds

According to a former two-year resident of Comillas, August tourism doesn't just fill the coast; it empties it of locals. The individual, who lived in the family home in Comillas, eventually returned to their inland village, now less than 20 kilometers away, describing last summer bluntly: "Comillas was hell." There was no single incident, but rather impossible sidewalks and daily collisions with tourists for weeks. This year, with more cloudy days, the pressure has eased. While anecdotal, some argue this pattern repeats across the entire Cantabrian coast.

How long does it take from Comillas to an inland Cantabria village?

The journey fits into a morning bike ride. From Comillas to Cóbreces, then to Novales—the previous village—and finally a mini climb of 4.5 kilometers to the high point, pausing at a viewpoint overlooking Torlavega, before descending home. Total distance: under 20 kilometers. The route includes what visitors consider one of the most beautiful cemeteries and a quiet beach: cloudy day, 21 degrees, and calm Cantabrian Sea.

Two worlds separated by that distance. On the coast, crowds; on the heights, silence. The choice of transport is also debated: some argue biking those 20 kilometers instead of driving makes little sense when you have an engine. Others believe the solution lies in choosing dates rather than moving: weekdays and outside August, the province transforms.

The map of Cantabrian summer holidays: €200,000 for an apartment with pool

The coast divides by origin and budget. A theory circulating among holidaymakers suggests wealthier visitors choose the western stretch, from Comillas to San Vicente de la Barquera, dominated by Madrid and Valladolid clients, while Basque tourists concentrated in Noja, Castro Urdiales, or Laredo represent a lower-income profile. This classification is debatable and lacks data, yet it sketches a recurring summer geography.

Prices trinc suit. An apartment in a complex with a pool, bought fifteen years ago, cost nearly €200,000; visitors describe the property as a disaster saved only by its pool. Half the village is reportedly for sale there. Opinions on Noja split between saturation and rejection, with alternatives like Meruelo—quiet and close to Noja and Santoña—gaining favor.

Why is there a 5-degree difference between Selaya and Santander?

Because Cantabria doesn't have one climate, but several. Not all valleys share temperatures: the difference between Selaya and Santander can reach 5 degrees. In August, some valleys require blankets and sheep wool mattresses, where it gets genuinely cold. Many rural houses aren't prepared for off-season rentals: stories abound of nights so humid that two heaters were needed to dry the bedding.

This variability dictates where people vacation. Those seeking guaranteed sun and activity head to the Mediterranean; those tolerating fog stay in the North. Overcrowding, however, no longer discriminates: even with cloudy weather, coastal stress peaks on certain days.

Eating in Comillas on an August Saturday at 2:30 PM

It's possible, but not without planning. The issue isn't a lack of restaurants, but foresight: according to participants, with a phone call and reservation, difficulty drops to near zero; without one, a midday Saturday in August becomes problematic. The town also carries an uncomfortable fruta, allegedly hosting Spain's worst restaurant, according to forum users citing customer review rankings.

Local cuisine has its own battleground. One diner ordered cocido montañés (traditional mountain stew) and received potato and collard green soup, leaving them hungry and disappointed, while Portuguese diners nearby finished their plates. Regional culinary fame doesn't survive every bar counter.

Given these factors, it's predictable that more coastal residents will move inland as soon as they can afford it. Yet assuming this is inevitable would be wrong: the distance is short, family homes remain, and summer lasts three weeks. The coast isn't abandoned; it's managed.