Barcelona: Ashura in Raval sparks debate on city center
A video showing men self-flagellating in a street, identified by many as being in the Raval or Barcelona's old town, has triggered a discussion far beyond the specific scene. The observance of Ashura, a central date in the Shia calendar, surprises many readers who were unaware of a significant Shia community in the city. From there, the issue shifts to tourism, housing, immigration, and Barcelona's economic model. The underlying question—what kind of city is being built and at what cost—has no simple answer.
What is Ashura and why is it celebrated in public
Ashura is a Shia commemoration that includes processions and, in some traditions, acts of self-flagellation. The scene in the video, with men striking their backs outdoors, corresponds to these practices. Many readers' surprise is less religious than demographic: the Shia community in Barcelona is not the most visible, and local perceptions often associate Muslim immigration primarily with North Africa and Sunni tradition. That this occurs in the historic center adds a layer of unfamiliarity for those who do not frequent the area.
Some argue the problem is not the religious practice itself, but its occurrence outside private venues. Others counter that Christian processions occupy public space normally, making the comparison relevant. The debate becomes tangled, as it usually does, in the realm of visibility: it is not so much the act that disturbs, but its public nature.
Raval, Gothic Quarter, and the cost of living downtown
The Raval and the Gothic Quarter appear in the conversation as the settings where tension concentrates. These are neighborhoods with aging native populations, properties that have increased in value, and tourist pressure that displaces middle-income residents. Several messages describe the process: owners who sold years ago, others who cannot because they would have nowhere to go, and a coexistence that deteriorates without anyone having planned it.
The most repeated diagnosis is economic: industry was dismantled and replaced by tourism and real estate. This model needs cheap labor and poorly tolerates mixed neighborhoods. Immigration would not be the cause, but the consequence of an economy that pushes locals out of the center and attracts workers willing to fill the gaps. Seen this way, the debate over Ashura is just the tip of a much larger iceberg.
Tourism, housing, and who keeps the center
Comparisons with Madrid appear several times. One message argues that Madrid has more Segarro and Dominican population than Barcelona and hosts Europe's largest mosque. Another replies that Barcelona receives more qualified European immigration and has a different demographic composition. The discussion turns into a contest between two urban models competing for the same narrative: which is more cosmopolitan, which is worse managed, and which is emptying out faster.
Tourism is the backdrop. Barcelona receives millions of visitors annually, sustaining much of the employment, but also driving up housing costs and displacing residents. One message summarizes the paradox: the city is wonderful until it kills you. The phrase is harsh, but captures something real: the historic center has become a theme park for visitors and a precarious dormitory for workers.
Coexistence in public space: processions, prayers, and noise
The debate on Ashura connects with other similar episodes. Prayers with loudspeakers in central Madrid squares are mentioned, along with the city council's intention to regulate them. The lingering question is always the same: how far does religious freedom extend in public space, and where does the neighbors' right to rest begin? There is no easy answer, and positions harden when the group performing the act is a minority.
Some defend that diversity is a fact and institutions must facilitate coexistence. Others argue that the visibility of certain practices generates rejection, and that this rejection is not combated by denying it. Ultimately, the discussion is not religious: it is about who has the right to occupy the street and under what conditions.
What Barcelona stakes in this debate
The city faces a contradiction that is not unique to it. It needs workers to sustain tourism and services, but does not offer them affordable housing. It receives diverse immigration, but has not built a narrative of coexistence that goes beyond folklore. And it competes with Madrid for investment and visitors in a context of accelerated deindustrialization.
The result is a public conversation oscillating between complaint and nostalgia, without concrete proposals. Ashura in the Raval is only a symptom. What is at stake is not a procession, but the type of city Barcelona wants to be in the coming decades. And today, nobody has that clear.
Summary of a discussion on Burbuja.info - Foro de economía, actualidad y política., translated from Spanish and reviewed before publication.
Read the full discussion (115 replies).