8.50 euro set lunch: Paco's bar holds out against rising prices

8.50 euro set lunch: Paco's bar holds out against rising prices

In a country where the set lunch menu (menú del día) now averages over 12 euros in many cities, some places still offer a combo plate or a full set menu for 8.50 euros. That is the case of a neighbourhood bar known as «Paco», whose budget offering draws both admiration and scepticism.

Defenders of the place see it as part of the intangible heritage of old-school Spanish hospitality, a stronghold that keeps prices affordable without giving up the essence of Spanish tapas culture. Customers appreciate that, in times of inflation, you can still eat for under 9 euros.

But not everyone is convinced. Critics argue that such a price is only possible by cutting corners on things like cleaning or ingredient quality. "Run a spatula over the griddle and you'll see," the most suspicious warn, suggesting that the built-up grease is part of the place's "special aroma". The tone, halfway between a joke and a warning, reflects the tension between saving money and food safety.

The debate over Paco bars —a generic name for these low-cost establishments— goes beyond food. It is a symptom of how rising costs are pushing traditional businesses out of the market, while some hold on with margins others consider unsustainable. The question is whether that resilience comes from genuine efficiency or from practices that push the limits of what is acceptable.

For now, Paco's bar remains open with its 8.50 euro set lunch. The striking detail: in a world where everything goes up, there are still places offering a full meal for the price of a café con leche downtown.